Day 7 – Visit to Faro Island

We dressed in layers this morning, as the cloudy skies were ominous. Boarded our bus to the trip to Faro Island. We drive north and took the free car ferry to Faro Island. The home of Ingmar Bergman. We were joined by two of Ingmar Bergman’s staff who guided the bus to locations where some of Bergman’s famous scenes were shot. We stopped by a small theater where Bergman reviewed the rushes (short clips of film that was shot, daily) and watched about 10 minutes of a Bergman film. Just enough to whet our appetite and made us wonder what happened next. We stopped along the beach where the rocks have been eroded and many pillars of stone remain. The beach is also full of fossils. Our lunch was served at a farm house converted to restaurant and vacation rentals. We had a wonderful Swedish Midsummer buffet from the Island of Faro. The extensive menu consisted of New potatoes from Gotland, boiled with fresh dill; Matjees herring with chives and sour cream; Hunters herring; Smoked fillet of flounder with red onions and fish roe sauce; Smoked salmon with “Kajp” sauce, Kajp is a wild local leek with a slight hint of garlic; Cured salmon with mustard sauce; Dray fish; Egg halves with trout roe; Egg halves with shrimps; Smoked leg of lamb with horse radish cream; Home made meatballs with lingonberries; Salad with apples and seasonal vegetables; Minced lamb burgers; Mutton cheese salad, Greek style; Fresh green asparagus with a cream and dill sauce, crispy bacon and parmesan cheese; Vasterbotten hard cheese; Hard cheese with cumin seeds; Oven trolls, filled rye buns; Typical bread from Gotland, baked Gasemora; Swedish crisp bread; Saffron pancakes with double cream and Dew berry jam. Definitely a feast fit for royalty. Departed the restaurant and made it to the ferry with two minutes to spare. Stopped by a church on the way back to Visby and took pictures of the simple yet ornate interior. The bus driver knows how to drive through the narrow streets of the medival center of the town. However, we walked the last 200 meters—in the warm sunshine—as the bus could not pass the truck that was unloading supplies at another hotel close by. We attended the geology lecture and took the tour through the Viking museum. Dinner tonight at a local restaurant that our female bus driver recommended. We have to pack again and have our large bags ready by 10pm as we have yet another early departure in the morning. We will be on our way to Russia by 8am where I am certain to get my passport stamped.

Day 6 – Bergen Norway to Visby (Gotland) Sweden

The day began with another lovely buffet breakfast followed by a wonderful lecture by Charles Doherty, The Hanseatic League and the Baltic. Charles’ lecture was a great primer for our tour of the Hanseatic Museum where we had the close-up and personal view of the life of a Hanseatic apprentice. The bunks were so small where at least two-three apprentices were locked in their sleeping quarters until the master decided they needed to work. From the Hanseatic Museum we walked back to the hotel and boarded the bus to take us to Troldhaugen, home of a great Norwegian composer, Edvard Greig. Our group was honored by a private piano concert by Norway’s best pianist whose interpretation of Greig’s music was phenomenal.

From Troldhaugen, we went to the airport to board our jet and be off to Sweden. We landed at the small airport in Visby, on the island of Gotland. Our guides greeted us with bags of fruit and lead us on a short walking tour of the only walled town in Sweden. There are approximately 3000 people living in homes within the ancient fortress. Our tour took us to the ruins of a church where a choir filled the space with music and song. Swedes love to sing, so we’re told, and there are many who sing in local choirs. We continued on our walking tour of the town where our last stop was a wonderful hotel situated in a renovated medival warehouse. Our room is on floor 4 (the 5^th floor, as floor numbering begins with 0), with a lovely winding staircase up to the bedroom loft. Napped for a couple hours before gathering in the lobby to meet our host family. We were introduced to Mats Jansson who drove us to his home where we were presented with a feast. Most of the vegetables were grown by Greta his wife, who made both sesame bread and traditional Swedish flatbread from scratch. Dining with a local family was a very unique experience. Their 17 year old daughter is interested in dance. She and her dancing team are competing in world championships in Europe next October. Their neighbors also attended along with their 10 year old daughter, Ellen, who left her email address and picture with me to take to my 10 year old granddaughter. Mats took a few of us on a mini-tour of other parts of the city we had not seen as he guided us back to our hotel. I had forgotten the scarves that I brought for our host family, so he waited patiently in the lobby with Don while I retrieved them and offered my gifts in appreciation.

Day 4 - Bergen Norway and the Flam Railway

We both awakened this morning (6-28-05) refreshed yet tired. The schedule is tight with so many stops and so much to see. We missed this morning’s lecture but had a good breakfast before setting out for the Flam Railway Tour. We boarded the bus at 8:15am and were off to the train station. There we got on to the car reserved for our group for the comfortable train ride to Mydral where we changed trains to the Flam Railway. The views were spectacular with cascading waterfalls down the sheer cliffs. The train stopped at the best waterfalls where legend says that men fall victim to to Sirens (seemingly beautiful women that hide their tails with long skirts). The water from the melting snow is so bountiful making the mist so heavy that it felt as if we were on the “Maid in the Mist” at Niagara Falls. We continued onto Flam (pronounced Flaam) where we cruised to Gudvagen through the Songefjord. Lunch was served aboard the ship and was filled with a buffet of seafood with all the trimmings. We stopped at Styvi where we posted cards at the smallest post office in Norway while sampling the best Norwegian heart-shaped waffles complete with homemade strawberry preserves. Shortly thereafter we disembarked the boat and took a very interesting bus ride back to Bergen. The bus driver masterfully maneuvered the tour bus up the hairpin turns and back to Bergen. We took an hour for a little shopping in the “Fish Market” where I bought a nice wool sweater and some small souvenirs. Our group met in the hotel lobby before dinner where we opted to walk to the Galleri (restaurant) instead of riding the bus. A short 10 minute walk (well maybe 15 since we went the scenic route) and we were at the most interesting gallery of art, wining, and dining complete with a historical lecture from a local who has also lived in the USA. The meal was superb medallions of beef accompanied by the best French red and white wines with wonderful chocolate mousse pie for dessert. Following dinner, Don and I walked back to the hotel only to venture out again for a ride on the Floyen (cable-car-tram) for a lofty night-view of the city.

Day 3 - More Adventures in Greenland

The morning wake-up call came only four short hours after falling asleep in the cozy and comfortable Igloo. Daylight was still as bright as it was at midnight. Don went to breakfast and let me snooze awhile longer as our day’s schedule was packed full of adventure. The expedition was split into smaller groups and we joined Group 5 for our first stop of the day. We took a scenic guided hike in the area of the ancient settlement, the former Inuit Village of Sermermuit approximately 1.5 kilometers south of the city where we found beautiful views of the ice fjord. Our guide Hanna, pointed out various arctic plants of Greenland including arctic lilies. We were blessed today with wonderful weather. Following the hike, we took a walking tour of Ilulissat. We visited the Museum of Ilulissat that is housed in the childhood home of the great arctic explorer, Knud Rasmussen. We made our way to the only church in town where the entire population seemed to be inside with the Lutheran confirmation celebrations. We saw native costumes complete with beaded shawls and sealskin pants, worn by both young girls and women. The men’s costume consisted of a plain white shirt and black pants. Our time for souvenir shopping was limited then back to the Hotel Arctic for lunch. We had about 45 minutes for lunch before we were scheduled to go on a helicopter ride to the glacier on Disco Island and a stop at the village of Ilimanaq—a remote settlement on Disco Bay opposite of Ilulissag. Our departure was delayed due to heavy ice encountered by some of the earlier groups coming back from Ilimanaq by boat. We finally arrived at the airport to board our helicopters once they landed, unloaded, and refueled. Don drew the co-pilot seat in a lottery. The 45 minute ride across the bay was spectacular with views of the icebergs of all shapes and sizes. We landed atop the glacier on Disco Island where the dog sledges and mushers awaiting our arrival. We dressed in seal-skin pants and parkas and had our first primer on sledging. The snow was soft and mushy due to the sun and very warm temperatures. The musher readied the dog team and soon commanded the dogs to run by uttering “yip, yip, yip” in a quick, staccato voice.
Too soon our dog sledge turned around and or ride ended where it began. We made our way back to the building to shed our sealskins and have a champagne toast with our fellow travelers. I was lucky enough to have the co-pilot seat on the way back to Ilulissat and learned that the pilot had to land on an iceberg only once for training. He said that the best bergs were just large enough to support the weight of the aircraft, and were smooth on top which indicates that the iceberg has already flipped. The helicopter brought us back at approximately 130 mph which is a good speed for the Bell 222. The shuttle picked us up at the airport and transported us down to the harbor where we boarded a boat for a cruise to the ice fjord. Our boat’s captain drove the boat through the deluge of icebergs quite skillfully. We took pictures of the massive icebergs from a much closer proximity on the water. Don volunteered to “fish” out the ice needed to chill our drinks. The glacial ice made a unique cracking sound when the whiskey was poured over it. Our voyage soon ended and we hiked up the hill from the harbor and back to the hotel for dinner. We missed the lecture by the geologist, by delays in our schedule throughout the day. Early departure scheduled for the next morning, required bags to be ready for pickup by 4:45am. We were exhilarated and exhausted at the same time following our last day in Greenland that was packed full of adventure!

Greenland and the Midnight Sun

We landed safely in lllusiat following our sweeping air tour of Disko Bay. The staff of Hotel Arctic greeted us with open arms.
I recognized the Hotel Manager from his photograph on their internet website—he drove the van and was delighted when I introduced Don and me as the couple that requested the Igloo Experience—obviously the BEST accommodation. Our room is reminiscent of a round Airstream and the view is spectacular. We proceeded to a barbeque dinner awaiting our group on the terrace and dined on barbeque chicken, halibut and cafish stuffed with shrmp, in addition to barbequed whale, musk ox, Dublin prawns and all the trimmins’. Best French Couvee was served along with French Chardonnay as well. I lamented to new friends about my phone’s limitations to connect to world ‘roaming’ as expected. Our new friend Don, from Lawrence Kansas told me to hang on and he would get his phone. His wife said that he thought his would work, and indeed it did. I called Parker from GREENLAND and let him know that I was looking at the iceburgs at 10pm and it was still daylight! I told him that Greenland has no trees, but I do have a rock to bring back to him from Greenland. I promised my Grandson that I will, someday, bring him to Greenland—on another EXCELLENT ADVENTURE!

Don went to sleep around 11pm and begged me to do the same. Beholding such beauty is so precious, I opted to update and write more about the adventure. As time passes I look out among the glory of nature as my jaw drops in ultimate awe. Sleep? Sleep? How can I sleep with such beauty beaconing out the door of our Igloo? It’s midnight and the sky is blue, the sea is still, and the ice bergs ominous, awesomely ominously reflecting in the SUNLIGHT AT MIDNIGHT!

6-25-2005 Day 2 The Real Adventure Begins

Wake-up call at the Four Seasons was set for 6am (Don) and 6:30am (Ginny) as our wheelie bags bound for Greenland had to be in the lobby by 7am with breakfast served until 8am. Bags tagged and gagged for GL and breakfast well done, we boarded the “Peter Pan” and took our magical bus ride to Logan International Airport. The infamous Boston “Big Dig” nearing completion, allowed our travel to the airport under Boston Harbor. Our driver told us to hold our breath, as the tunnel has sprung some leaks. He also said that he had his SCUBA gear in the cargo hold—quite the joker. Arrived at the E Terminal (General Aviation) and claimed our bags we so dutifully surrendered to our expeditions leaders the day before and morning of—never have quite figured out the bag thing. In my opinion, the bags have an expedition agenda all their own. No matter where I’ve traveled—the Himalayas of India, the Inca Trail in Peru, or the Lands of the Midnight Sun—bags are on their own schedule. Although we are on a private jet tour, TAC requires all passengers to pass security before boarding the aircraft. I saw the plane parked out on the tarmac and was told it was being catered, fueled, and inspected. Once the plane was towed to gate E7B, we boarded our jet. WOW. Yes, it was an eye opener. We were seated in the coach’s section of the plane—very comfortable. Let me tell you that it was the not the normal coach section, but where the coaches for the Dallas Mavericks NBA basketball team sits. WOW. The entire plane is first class, but there are three distinct sections. We were seated in the Premium First Class seats—the coach’s cabin—the bulkhead row and had three drawers in front of our seats along with a 19” LED screen of our flight path. Initially our plane had technical difficulties and following our push-back, we were towed back to the gate for further inspection. It was determined that we needed an electrical relay replaced, and we were towed out to a ‘holding’ area where the most excellent flight crew served us Champagne and Caviar. After the aircraft mechanic was able to secure the replacement part from American Airlines (it pays to network), we were on our way to Greenland. Lunch was spectacular with a choice of Venison Medallions or Sauteed Halibut complete with potatoes and veggies along with your choice of the finest French red or white wine. The apologetic pilot and flight crew made up time on the way. We watched as the speedometer topped 594 mph at times. Our charter in Nuuk Greenland was waiting. Once landed in Nuuk, we walked directly to our Air Greenland charter and boarded the plane. I turned on my cell phone expecting a perfect signal to all my grandson, Parker, but only saw an “Emergency Only” display. I was destined to call Parker, my Grandson, who was expecting a call from GREENLAND. It was a quick turnaround and we were off the ground. Oddly enough the cockpit door was OPEN. The flight crew announced that passengers were welcomed to the flight deck! I was the first passenger that took the pilot up on the offer and watched our turbo prop fly high over the clouds encompassing southern Greenland. The very friendly pilot said that they planned to take us on a scenic circle around Illusiat before landing. I told them that being in the cockpit was not allowed in the USA, and he told me that in Greenland, they have an open-door policy. They don’t want a terrorist to have the ability to lock himself in the cockpit.

Our Vacation Begins

Plymouth Rock - 6-23-2005

Our vacation begins.

Boarded the plane @ PDX (UA196) bound for IAD. Row 6 turns out to be the bulkhead with more than ample leg room. “Pacifier” was the movie, but technical difficulties caused an alternate to be shown—“Million Dollar Baby” which we had already seen. We opted for “Meet the Fockers” on DVD—very entertaining. Had to change batteries on the laptop to finish the last three minutes of the movie.

Lunch at TGIF’s before boarding UA980 to BOS. Loaded up our competition yellow Mustang convertible and took off the top down. Don punched it right out of the gate and said, “If you’ve got it, flaunt it!” I laughed.

Checked into the Sheraton, dropped off the bags, and headed south to Plymouth MA. Our goal to see Plymouth Rock before dark, and we made it. Darkness came quickly as we photographed and stared at the place where passengers of the Mayflower. The rock is enshrined for posterity and has “1620” is engraved in fairly large numbers on the top.

We split a single lobster dinner at Wood’s Seafood near the Lobster Hut accompanied by a wholesome cup of chowder and completed with a warm glass of cabernet.

We are indeed Pilgrims on an odyssey—the Adventure has bugun!

Route Map and Destinations